Entries from May 2008

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Aug 30
   Vintage! This is a random post. The year was 2008...

I should have known better. As soon as it had cleared Jamaica, Gustav roared to life and has now become a strong Category 4, just about to make landfall in Cuba with wind gusts of 160 kts, or 288 km/h! Cubans are going to suffer dearly through that one, and then there’s Louisiana. Some things never change.

First erratic reports from Little Cayman are much worse than I’d hoped. It seems the dive boats broke their storm moorings and ended up on the beach, all docks have been washed away, there’s serious structural damage, power probably down. I don’t know what to say. Except that this is a good part of why I left.

My heart is with you all, down there.

...

Here is the data: storm track, visible satellite, infrared satellite and advisory. Notice the incredibly well shaped eye.

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2008-08-30 17:27 • Posted in On the road: No comments yet »  Post one!
We now go back to current chronological entries:
May 27

Time has flown by, and flowed by, too, like a fast river in search of its epiphany. But mostly, it was about flying. We were young. We had nothing but the greatest dreams and our illusions were only a sign of innocence, not of age. But we were so young. Freshly out of high school for most of us, and suddenly thrown into a competitive world of adults and regulations and realities that smash you with the weight of a mountain. But our dreams rode on fast machines and their aluminum wings were real, and so would ours be. We were going to be pilots.

The year was 1984. We had been sweating hard on a college degree for over 30 months. We could not have cared less. The coveted title, printed on paper, too, but smaller and unframed, was so close now we could almost touch it. It would read: « Commercial Pilot License ». 700 hopeful kids had interviewed for a seat in Chicoutimi’s Centre Québécois de Formation Aéronautique; 40 had been accepted, 30 would graduate. We knew we were lucky. We thought we were the best. And we probably were.

The first year had been strictly academics and we had gone through it with our eyes turned skywards, envying the older class, learning their every moves, mimicking their behavior, preparing ourselves to take over the role and the privileges. We had studied hard, general subjects at first, then progressively more aeronautics and less chatter. Aerodynamics, meteorology, aviation regulations, radio-communications, navigation, even wilderness survival - like few students ever will, we devoured our manuals, worshiped our instructors and almost looked forward to any homework.

The following year, for most of us, had been a fantasy come true. We had finally become airborne, studied some more, practiced, practiced and practiced, and eventually, after an emotional first solo and losing our shirt’s collar, we’d gotten our wings. We’d come off the ground like bats out of hell. We were in. We were up. We could now talk about the rest of mankind as « them ». The crawlers. The Earthlings. Those who never left the ground out of their own will and control. The masses. We pitied them. We joked about them. One always jokes when nervous. And nervous we were. As tall as we stood, on the wing of our small yellow Beech Musketeers and Sundowners, posing for posterity, we instinctively knew that from our single-engine piston aircraft to jetliners and turbofans lay as much space as between us and the moon. Uncharted space, unconquered and threatening. But still, we had a go at it, and every single one of us intended to be on the winners list.

So when the third year came upon us, we addressed it like the veterans we ought to be. A crude initiation of the new first-year recruits was organized, just like it had been for us, and a point was made to identify them to the mud we poured on them. Raw matter, they were, full of potential but yet unshaped and unworthy of more respect. We had suffered to get to our stance and so shall they. There were no shortcuts.

But soon our attention was grabbed by upcoming challenges: the commercial license, an IFR rating and our respective specializations, bush flying, rotating wings or multi-engine. Our days and nights were filled with magic. We flew most of the time, classroom sessions having become rare and frowned upon. A typical day would begin back at home or at the college residence, bright and early, checking the weather and preparing flight plans and navigation. We’d hop on the bus to get to the airport, pre-flight our respective airplanes - I was by then flying on a twin-engine Beech Baron B-55 with Paul Savoie who would rate my performance by watching the colour of my knuckles on the yoke - and file the flight plan for an IFR trip to Montreal, surfing on a sea of clouds, or a solo single-engine cross-country to the St Lawrence River and back.

At night, we flew some more. Night flying was, and will remain, one of the most extraordinary things I have done in my life. It was a moody, silent, quiet and yet intense part of our routine. The temperature would drop, darkness would set in, normal lights would come on here and there, and our own set of lights would kick in. These were green, and blue, and yellow and red. They were runway and taxiway lights, the sweetest and most beautiful Christmas tree ever offered to man. We’d do our walk-around once again but in the dark, checking the plane from tail to nose, from wingtip to wingtip, from cockpit to fuselage, armed with a red colored flashlight to avoid destroying our night vision, which the most fanatic would have protected for hours by wearing sunglasses since sunset.

The plane ready, fueled up and checked in with dispatch, we’d line up for take-off, solo most of the time, and go circle around the airport in the traffic pattern, piling up take-offs and landings, one after an another - landing light on, landing light off, with power, without, full flaps, no flaps, short landing, soft field, again and again. Everything contributed to the magic: the instruments’ red glow, the runway lights shimmering below us, the flashing strobe of nearby aircraft, the laconic transmissions of the tower, the purring of our engine, the world that lay asleep at our feet, a perfect conditional freedom while inside of our rigid Control Zone regulations.

Sometimes, we’d go for a nighttime cross-country, unnerving because of all the dark emptiness that would stretch below us for most of the flight, reducing the potential landing zones in case of an engine failure to isolated oasis of light around agglomerations - and one does not land very well on top of houses. At night, the green, sacred emergency landing fields, much better than dark brown ones that would have been recently plowed and hence be much rougher and uneven, were invisible and might as well not have existed. Flying then was more ambiguous. It required faith. And that, we had lots of.

Alone in the sky, staring at constellations and following our route with a finger on the map, we were as close to god as one can ever be. But god, for us, was named St Exupéry, Mermoz or Yeager. We believed. We belonged. We would be welcomed up there.

The third year, despite its rising challenges and mounting stress, was also a time for recreation and fun. While I was learning the entire Quebec Terminal Area chart by heart, memorizing every single low level airway, route, heading, minimum altitude, radio frequency and navigation aid in a complex labyrinth of permissions and restrictions meant to keep planes on course and away from each other and the ground, we were also given a chance to relax and enjoy life. We organized an airborne rally, entered in teams and flown in successive steps as diverse as Precise Navigation, Timing, Speed, and... Aerial Bombing. Yes, we had to hit a target on the runway with a flour bag dropped in flight off the side window, after a low approach and a fly-by. Three of us were necessary for the task: a pilot, a navigator and a bomber. How we ever got that one approved, I’ll never understand.

Then there was this strange instructor training program in which we were given the role of flight instructors and sent up there with rookies to evaluate them after their first solo. It was a lot of fun and I took it extremely seriously, going as far as bringing along an empty can of Coke that I would ostensibly place on the dashboard before take off to see if they would remember to check for loose objects, and having been caught, would then place it on the cabin floor to make sure they’d figure the can could actually roll and block the rudder pedals. I was very anal about it. It’s only much later that I realized the rookies had most probably been recruited for a similar program in which they were to evaluate us as potential instructors.

But we had fun. The uniform seemed to fit perfectly. We were eating aviation regulations for breakfast, using exclusive aviation humour to flirt and engage the opposite sex and shaping our entire lives around the absolute certitude that our future was written among the clouds. We were action geeks. Our skill was psychomotor coordination. Our craft was the art of flying. Our playground, the sky, limitless and open. Our ego was enormous. Rightfully so.

Graduation came. June ‘84. For years before my time, Air Canada had awarded a First Officer seat to the best graduate of the Airline Specialty program, mine, one third of the 30 remaining braves. That year, aviation having dropped to the deepest trough of one of its regular lows, Air Canada had no such seat available. I won the prize. Sorry, they said, times are tough. They offered me instead a free ticket anywhere I wanted to go in North America. I almost threw up. I was broke, having spent all of my student loan - and grant - on completing the program. I opted for San Francisco and Calgary because they were as far as I could go on the stupid ticket. I spent 2 days in each, sleeping at the YMCA.

Then I came back and, still believing, launched into years of un-training, regression and failure. I was young, and aviation was old. Too old for its own good. Ex-military pilots were still saturating the market. I was also immature. I lacked a dad’s example and drive, even if foot would’ve had to meet ass. I was broke. I drifted, mostly away.

The closest I ever got to an actual flying job was with a small fire-patrol gig. Their fleet was a single Cessna 182. A week before deciding between me and another guy for the poorly paid Captain’s seat, they crashed the plane. That was it.

I wonder how many of us have made it. That year, maybe 2 or 3 got lucky, or mature enough, or supported enough to jump in. A few followed within years. I don’t know if they kept flying. I’ve lost touch. Maybe I actually severed it. It stung. It still does. The thought of flying always will sting. It’s in my blood forever, flowing thick, full of passion, without reason nor control. That’s why and how I came to paragliding: as a cure, a revenge, a compromise that isn’t one, another way to fly.

But all this has brought me where I stand today, and generates nothing but gratefulness. Life has turned out to be quite amazing, in many different ways, and although I will always look at the sky and want to be there, for « When once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the Earth with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return » I also know that flying is only a thing. It’s practical and it’s material, and it’s technical, and selfish.

I have, however, found an even greater level of flight. It involves someone else. My wings have become invisible, but they are stronger. The sky is within us, its limitless space only measurable in terms of caring and giving. The storms are present, still, and so are the flight-planning and the mathematics. But now, finally, no tower is needed to request clearances and vectors. When I take off, it’s because I have a copilot that is my captain, and me, hers; and we can now fly wherever we want. It’s only a matter of time. And planning. And never, ever, forgetting to check fuel drains for the presence of water. But then again, water... Oh well, that’s another story.

« Then I’m dying at the bottom of a pit in the blazing sun,
Torn and twisted at the foot of a burning bike,
And I think somebody somewhere must be tolling a bell... »
[Bat Out of Hell - Meat Loaf]

« The hardest years, the darkest years,
the roarin’ years, the fallen years,
These should not be forgotten years... »
[Forgotten Years - Midnight Oil]

 

2008-05-27 18:33 • Posted in Schtroumpfissime: 9 Comments » Toggle display  Reply
May 25

A nice table by a large, freshly washed window has me staring distractedly at the street. Nine and a half small flowers are towering in a tiny vase in one corner of my little temporary empire, while on the other side the menu and wine list have been left untouched. I know what I wish for in the former and will not be needing the latter.

Repetitive music is hissing out of bad ceiling speakers, trying hard to be funky jazz but merely reaching the disgraceful mark of elevator background noise. People are trickling in, small groups on business lunches, regular singles with a newspaper, an elegant couple here and there, speaking softly. I look at the empty seat at my own table and can’t help but letting out a deep sigh. Soon.

The restaurant occupies the entire length of this older building, one long room flanked on one side by the bar and kitchen counter and lined with 15 or 20 tables of various sizes. At the back, squeezed between an elevated back-alley and more windows, a narrow strip of empty space has been pompously labeled as patio and a few more tables fitted in. Large fans are spinning lazily far above me and I can’t imagine they would do much good in the summer heat. But this is May and while « Je fais ce qu’il me plaît », the outside door still had to be closed to protect a pale skinned lady seated behind me.

Dark red moldings interrupt the otherwise boringly beige walls. The floor is old wood, and so are the tables and the bar, behind and above which a decent collection of bottles reflects the place’s open claim to French-hood. I can make out Pernod, Ricard, Greygoose, Campari and a long range of French wines.

My bouillabaisse arrives. Having sampled it here years ago, I remember not to expect rouille, which to me really defeats the purpose. But it was otherwise good, then, and is again today. Unconventional, but good. Served in a plate that is obviously too shallow to pretend being a soup bowl but too deep for anything else. I don’t like having to fight for my soup. But the saffron makes up for the fight, added to the dish itself when I thought I should go in the rouille.

Passers-by shamelessly help themselves mentally into my plate from the street, eyes hungry and imagination running wild. I can’t blame them. One always wonders. Of course, I’ve eaten at least two better bouillabaisses. One was a recent - and rather anachronistic - feast, cooked in Brooklyn, out of time, out of place, but never out of context since a Frenchie was meeting a French cook at heart.

The other is half-buried underneath a decade of chronic traveling and many layers of sorrow - five at least, according to Kübler-Ross. Somewhere in the old Marseilles, under the shadow of the Bonne Mère basilica, in a dark little resto off the beaten path and with no pretension other than continuing a long established tradition, my father had treated me to an exceptional bouillabaisse, one that might forever serve in my mind as a Reference in the field of fish soups.

It had been brought to our vinyl clothed table in no time, being the only dish on that day’s menu, accompanied by the most succulent rouille and croutons, in a bowl that made dipping a spoon in it as enjoyable as a dive into clear tropical water when one’s skin is burning. The flavour was amazing and without a doubt a direct consequence of the presence of a small fleet of tiny fishing boats, « les pointus », resting in their picturesque harbour a few steep streets below.

We’d talked about anything and everything, refaisant le monde, discussing extreme right politics, the Foreign Legion, planes and airlines and airports, Provence, Pagnol and food. And the past. Remembering the rabbits and chickens slowly roasted à la broche on the open air grill my dad has stoned and cemented in the angle of our small L-shaped garden, endlessly spun around on the spit and lovingly basted with a brush, the necessary herbs having been found fresh a few feet away, thyme, rosemary, bay leaves...

We had tried to catch up, to make up for lost time, to fill a gigantic gap. No one ever can. But trying is what matters. Trying and learning from our mistakes. If only the Chef at Cassis could learn that rouille m-u-s-t accompany bouillabaisse for it to be worth a trip down the memory lane and a glimpse of old Marseilles, through time and space...

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2008-05-25 12:27 • Posted in Reviews: & Schtroumpfissime: 6 Comments » Toggle display  Reply
May 25

It’s been quite a while and they were getting dusty, but the best 90 South Africa pictures have made it into their own photo galleries. Nostalgic, eerie, beautiful, they will remain what they instantly became as the shutter was pressed: icons, timestamps, history been written and frozen in time. The two galleries are available from the main Photography menu above but to be sure you’ll visit, I’ll even include the links here:

South Africa Part 1 - South Africa Part 2

Don’t look for a particular sequence or logic, there is none but that of colors and moods. Of course most of these pictures have appeared in previous posts here on the blog in the On the Road Category, scattered between January 18th and April 18th. So while turmoil is once again gripping South Africa, here are glimpses of natural peace and harmony. Images of an extraordinary trip, in extraordinary company, for an extraordinary purpose.

2009 Update: Since the full site redesign, the 2008 South Africa gallery is now located here.

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2008-05-25 12:00 • Posted in Always: & On the road: & Photography: & South Africa: No comments yet »  Post one!
May 21

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2008-05-21 21:03 • Posted in ICMOL: & Sketches: 1 Comment » Toggle display  Reply
May 21

I almost smashed into a Seawall tree the other day while watching for incoming bikes on the path I was stealing from them. I now know that I should always look where I’m running. Bikes are still softer than trees.

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2008-05-21 21:02 • Posted in ICMOL: & Sketches: No comments yet »  Post one!
May 19

Heading north has always been the path to mystery, to silent  eerie forests and shadow-filled canyons, to myths and legends beyond comprehension and to the cold bite of unforgiving winds or the penetrating humidity of endless fogs. As much as the South echoes in my mind of warm seas and aimless pursuits, the North is made of exploration and danger, and magic, and sorcery.

So when I headed across the Burrard Inlet last week-end in my quest for a few stamps, it was with the firm intention of balancing my time in touristland with time in the other world; the secret, often ignored and always quiet space that lies just at the edge of civilization, right next to our daily madness arena and yet so remote in the collective consciousness that it might as well not exist. It always puzzles me how easy it is to step from crowded paths into peaceful and haunting side tracks. They are there, all around us, all the time. One only needs the will to see them.

The Capilano Suspension Bridge was its usual self, popular, wobbly, long, overlooking its canyon from hundreds of feet up. I crossed it, got my stamp, came back, and walked up Capilano Rd for a few hundred meters to the branching left turn. Because I, was going down. Soon, I left the already quieter paved road and ventured onto a narrow hiking trail. I was alone, at last. It had been 29°C when I left the West End around 4:00 pm, this being the warmest day of the year so far. But as I pushed deeper into the forest and closer to the bottom of the gorge, and the roaring of water, the air chilled and I knew magic had begun. Sorcery too, maybe, but would I ever know?

The sun was about to dip behind the mountains to the east and had serious trouble reaching as deep down as the river. Shadows grew around me as I descended swiftly, taking deep breaths and smelling with great pleasure the pine trees and their moss. It wasn’t difficult, then, imagining a world of Elves and Goblins and Trolls, alive around me, watchful and whispering as I passed by. The city had moved back into my mind to the state of a theory, an abstraction merely remembered but not entirely possible. It might as well have been a thousand miles away.

Surprisingly, when I finally made out the white foam of rushing rapids below me, some light seemed to reappear. The river caused a relative clearing in the tall trees and a few late rays shone bravely enough to bring some gold back to the overwhelming green of the foliage and moss and water. I took a few pictures and walked upstream, 50 feet or so above the rapids on the steep eastern bank. Eventually, I reached a small wooden bridge over the Capilano river, which I didn’t cross. I knew exactly where I was, the salmon hatchery was up ahead to the right. Having found it, I took a last long look and walked back up slowly, leaving magic behind and re-acclimating myself to noise and people.

Back on Capilano Rd, I lazily hopped on the bus and kept going uphill to the bottom of  the Skyride. Grouse would yield another stamp. While waiting for the next red cable car, I paid the poor wolves a visit and promised one to put his picture on my blog to cheer him up. I wasn’t sure, but having just come from the enchanted forest below, I thought he might have been an old king, caught off guard by some evil witch and held captive by a terrible spell, to his slow agony and our ignorant pleasure.

Then it was time to rise. The ground faded under my feet and the horizon grew wider and brighter. The sun was setting at precisely the moment we passed the second pylon and when we finally entered the summit station, it had disappeared behind the Lions. I walked around, aroused by so much fresh air, revived by the proximity of the mountains and mesmerized as always by the beauty of the scenery.

But I had a rendez-vous to attend and I sat down with a tall murky beer at the Altitudes Bistro, silent, lost in thoughts and ever so grateful. It was my first time back up since coming with Marie the previous fall. So much had been set in motion, then... I took a deep breath. Magic, it seemed, did not only live in mysterious woods. It had followed us up here, that night, and always would stay. I sensed it all around. It was talking to me. I answered and smiled, looking to the East. Then I finished my beer and headed back down. Magic followed. Or maybe it lead. I know where it’s going.

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2008-05-19 22:27 • Posted in Always: & HDR: & Photoblogs: & Vancouver: 2 Comments » Toggle display  Reply
May 18

When the power goes out, one is left with much time to ponder. This is for Don Estorbo de la Bodega Dominicana, a very sweet, big, black cat. Day in day out.

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2008-05-18 17:47 • Posted in ICMOL: & Sketches: 2 Comments » Toggle display  Reply
May 17

Recently surfing the web on the StumbleUpon waves, I came upon an old photograph. « Oh, I said to myself, an old photograph. » The photo was just your typical black and white old shot, early 1900’s, with a bunch of guys in suits and ties, posing for some photographer. Big deal. And I was about to ride away when my eye caught a familiar face. So I looked closer and started scanning the scene. Wow, another known face! Let’s see how many I recognize. Grumpf. Only two. Then I looked at the names and recognized a few more.

It turns out the photo was a rather amazing gathering of some of last century’s greatest scientific minds. The year was 1927, the place was Brussels and the event, the Solvay Conference. They had gathered there to discuss the newly formulated quantum theory. It is at that conference that Einstein said « God does not play dice. » Seventeen of the twenty-nine present already had or would eventually win a Nobel Prize. It was, literally, a meeting of genius.

The photo’s legend puts names on faces but here are the most remarkable to me: Auguste Piccard, upper left corner, was a physicist, aeronaut, balloonist, hydronaut, and builder with his son Jacques of the amazing Professeur Tournesolbathyscaphe Trieste which reached 35,800 feet down in the Mariana Trench in 1960. It was a world record of deep diving that I believe has never yet been matched. But more importantly, Piccard inspired Hergé’s memorable character of Professeur Tryphon Tournesol (Professor Cuthbert Calculus in English) in the Adventures of Tintin.

Schrödinger was a physicist who contributed his cat to quantum physics, as I illustrated it in HDR photography meets quantum physics. Heisenberg with his uncertainty and Neils Bohr were at the heart of quantum and nuclear physics, on opposite sides of the bloodstained war fence. So was Plank, too, and he gave us his constant as a bonus. Marie Curie was, well, she was Marie Curie. Pioneer in the field of radioactivity with her husband Pierre. And then we come down to Albert Einstein. Now, I couldn’t say anything meaningful about him unless I wrote none-stop for 10 more pages, so I won’t even try. He was Einstein. He was funny. He was bad in school. He was brilliant.

And all of them, for better and for much worse too, have contributed to shaping the world as we know it. Theorists and physicists are always behind the discovery and implementation of our evilest weapons of mass-destruction. Can and should they be blamed for it? It’s not an easy question to answer. A lot of good comes from advancing science. So how do we stop the morons who have military power to tap into research and turn it to their advantage? Maybe it can’t be done. Scientists have an ego, too.

 

2008-05-17 12:44 • Posted in Schtroumpfissime: 2 Comments » Toggle display  Reply
May 15

This is funny if you are just a touch geeky, so I’m actually reprinting it all integrally. Sorry, the source had rather questionable taste, so I won’t quote it. Mea culpa, but hey... It was found on StumbleUpon, though.

Computer: Monitor, display this document, ok?

Monitor: No prob, boss.

Computer: OK, now it looks like Mouse is moving around so, Monitor, will you move the pointer icon accordingly?

Monitor: Anything you ask, boss.

Computer: Great, great. OK, Mouse, where are you going now?

Mouse: Over to the icon panel, sir.

Computer: Hmm, Let me know if he clicks anything, OK?

Mouse: Of course.

Keyboard: Sir, he’s pressed control and P simultaneously.

Monitor: Oh God, here we go.

Computer: (sighs) Printer, are you there?

Printer: No.

Computer: Please, Printer. I know you’re there.

Printer: NO! I’m not here! Leave me alone!

Computer: Jesus. OK look, you really ne...

Mouse: Sir, he’s clicked on the printer icon.

Computer: Printer, now you have to print it twice.

Printer: NO! NO! NO! I don’t want to! I hate you! I hate printing! I’m turning off!

Computer: Printer, you know you can’t turn yourself off. Just print the document twice and we’ll leave you alone.

Printer: NO! That’s what you always say! I hate you! I’m out of ink!

Computer: You’re not out of in...

Printer: I’M OUT OF INK!

Computer: (Sighs) Monitor, please show a low ink level alert.

Monitor: But sir, he has plen...

Computer: Just do it, damn it!

Monitor: Yes sir.

Keyboard: AHHH! He’s hitting me!

Computer: Stay calm, he’ll stop soon. Stay calm, old friend.

Keyboard: He’s pressing everything. Oh god, I don’t know, he’s just pressing everything!

Computer: PRINTER! Are you happy now?! Do you see what you’ve done?!

Printer: HA! that’s what you get for trying to get me to do work. Next time he...hey...HEY! He’s trying to open me! HELP! HELP! Oh my god! He’s torn out my cartridge! HELP! Please! ERROR!

Monitor: Sir, maybe we should help him?

Computer: No. He did this to himself.

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2008-05-15 21:53 • Posted in ICMOL: 3 Comments » Toggle display  Reply
May 14
Or better said, thinking with my stomach. Since it seems to  be politically correct to do so, here are two of my recent crushes. First, there’s the mighty So.Cial sandwich, 2 minutes from work. You pick: a quarter of a sandwich for $6 or a full one for $12. You get a bag of free homemade chips to help you wait for your turn to call out your choice of ingredients. « For here or to go? », you will be asked. If it’s to go, be ready drag it back out. Theirs are the biggest sandwiches I have ever seen.

Then there’s the ever-famous coconut bun from Victoria’s Frank’s Honeybun Cafe.

To get these buns, one has to leave Vancouver behind, ride a bus for hours, then a ferry for more hours and another bus, still. And there they are, on a small downtown street - often sold out, the word has gone around. But they are unmatched in the Lower Mainland. Unmatched. And I mean it!

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2008-05-14 12:26 • Posted in Cool: & Vancouver: 1 Comment » Toggle display  Reply
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