Sitting at a coffee shop terrace in Yaletown, the afternoon sun pleasantly warming me up, I can’t help but to realize how far ahead Vancouver is compared to most North American cities I know. « Ahead in what way? » might you ask. In the art of en-joy-ing life.
I honestly rarely see anybody show any signs of stress in their everyday life or at work. Drivers are polite, taking their time, patient. Pedestrians are given complete respect and priority. On the other hand, nobody here jailwalks.
Vancouver is also the most dog-friendly city I know, France included. And yet, as opposed to Paris, strolling down the waterfront Seawall or Robson Street doesn’t feel like walking on a mine field, the way it would in the City of Light itself. One can actually wander around gazing up at the high-rises without fear of stepping into a dog’s revenge.
And walking with your eyes turned skyward is something you end up doing a lot, in Vancouver. She isn’t called the City of Glass for nothing. The buildings are all literally made of glass, in turn shiny, reflective, pastel green, metallic or transparent. It almost seems as though cement has been banished from construction ethics. Le Corbusier wouldn’t be happy here, but I am.
So today I ended up in Yaletown after arriving late at the Science World and deciding to hop on the False Creek Ferry which links four or five locations on both banks of the Creek. The slow ferry looks more like a floating bath tub than a boat but it’s fun and extremely convenient to avoid a bus ride or a long walk across bridges.
The sun is reflecting on all the windows and birds are singing in nearby trees, as if enjoying it too, like Mr. Hulot’s canary responding to the window’s reflection.
This is not a poor area. A Lamborghini is parked a few meters from here and the rest aren’t cheap either. I’m tempted to compare the neighborhood to Beverly hills or St. Tropez but the difference is that here I don’t get a sense of jealous exclusivity and I don’t feel out of place even though I could barely pay for my coffee.
Vancouver’s elite tends to tolerate its poor counterpart with nonchalance. The fact is that our city is the end of the line on a national westward migration of the poor and the homeless who flee unforgiving eastern winters in search of warmer nights and merrier days, like the rest of us.
I’ve read somewhere that Vancouver’s homeless population is estimated at 5000 souls, which would probably be a fraction of what it is in many other North American cities. It’s 5000 too many, of course, and I don’t pretend to know what their life is like and what they must endure. Theirs is a misery that I suppose must be experienced to be understood. A misery of the mind, mostly.
They manage, however, to keep their presence very noticeable and begging is quite common downtown. It surprises visitors but doesn’t seem to impress the locals. It probably gives them a chance to practice R.A.K.’s and must help them feel better about themselves and justify the high price of living downtown.
But as people say here, « It’s all good, eh! »
For the homeless, wherever, whenever:
« Remember when we found misery
We watched her, watched her spread her wings
And slowly fly around our room
And she asked for your gentle mind »
[Blonde Redhead – Misery is a Butterfly]
« Arrête, tu me fais du mal!
Date of comment: 2006-05-02 20:01 •Et comme disait Véronique:
"Je chante dans le port de Vancouver
Je chante sur des souvenirs amers
Et je danse, je danse
C’est bien
Je n’vois jamais le matin
Je chante dans le port de Vancouver
Et je lance des menaces dans les airs
Et je danse, je danse
C’est bien
Je n’vois jamais le matin
Et c’est bien
A midi je suis dans mon lit
Et je rêve de quelque chose
A minuit je suis dans la ville
Et je cherche quelque chose" »
« c’est beauuuuuuuuuuuu.
Date of comment: 2006-05-02 20:17 •Et j’y suis aussi !!! »
« Fab: hello
Comment ca, je te fais du mal??? Moi qui suis si doux...
On est chanceux, pensons aux pauvres qui vivent aux iles Caiman ou a Lyon 
»
Date of comment: 2006-05-02 23:32 •Steph: hello aussi
« I WANNA GO!! I WANNA GO!! I want to know all that beauty and share the art of en-joy-ing life...
»
Date of comment: 2006-05-02 22:08 •’Give me a ticket for an aeroplane
Ain’t got time to take a fast train’.
« Well then you’d better put your boots on, because « These boots were made for walking... » to the airport
»
Date of comment: 2006-05-02 23:14 •« And, that’s just what they do indeed! LOL
»
Date of comment: 2006-05-02 23:19 •« By the way, Angel, I believe the level of en-joy-ment of life must not be too bad either where you are, tapas, sangria, late nights fiesta, flamenco, the sea...
»
Date of comment: 2006-05-02 23:38 •And how far is Castejon de Sos? Great paragliding there!
« After re-reading my post, I found it surprisingly selfish and blind. I’m not sure that enjoying my cozy little Vancouver experience gives me the right to ignore the fact that I come across the homeless everyday downtown, and that my own R.A.K. rate is rather low.
Date of comment: 2006-05-02 23:21 •I added a line to the post, not wanting to change the essence of what was a happy text but hoping to balance things out a little. It reads: « It’s 5000 too many, of course, and I don’t pretend to know what their life is like and what they must endure. Theirs is a misery that must be experienced to be understood. A misery of the mind, mostly. » »
« Vincent, your description of Spain sounds more like Spain during the holidays. Everyday life is quite different, just like in many other countries I guess. Though, it’s true that most people know how to take their time here. But it’s not all sangria, tapas and fiesta.
Date of comment: 2006-05-03 05:53 •Anyhow, what you added to your post shows you’re able to reaapraise and it’s rare nowadays. Well done then. And I still like the ‘happy’ side of the initial version. As for Castejon de Sos, i’ll look it up and tell you! »
« I like following your trail. I enjoyed the tub tremendously. »
Date of comment: 2006-05-03 18:47 •« I’m certainly not the most patient driver. I think Vancouverites can get a little crazy on the roads but it pales in comparison to other cities.
Date of comment: 2006-05-05 12:44 •Vancouver is home to Canada’s richest neighbouhood and only 10 minutes away, Canada’s poorest. There are so many contrasting elements.
Our ‘history’ doesn’t go back that far - everything looks new, everything is being built - the entire city is under construction. It’s a great experience to live though, although... does all the glass and shiny-newness of it all have any character?
I think it does - mostly because the new shiny glass buildings reflect and mirror our most valuable assets - the natural beauty.
The ocean, the mountains... and the mix of people. I really don’t know anyone who’s parents were BOTH born in Canada, let alone Vancouver. People come from all over and call Vancouver home. It’s the natural beauty that I value the most :) »
« LOL, Thank you for bringing some nuance to my slightly subjective view of Vancouver
Date of comment: 2006-05-05 13:45 •To your question « does all the glass have any character? », I would answer yes; it’s own character as such: shiny glass. Just like white can still have its own identity after being a simple combination of all colors...
And I totally second you on the natural beauty thing, Vancouver’s greatest value. But I do include all the glass and intense urban core into that natural beauty. For once, here, it enhances it, doesn’t it? »