I get up early on my day off and jump in the shower. My A/C was broken and I’ve sweated all night under the miserable whisper of my ceiling fan. But the shower faucet coughs, spits out a few droplets, burps some air and then goes dead. The water has ran out. Again.
Yes, we do have a reverse osmosis unit to turn seawater into a very good quality fresh water. But it’s been broken for months. We also have six cisterns collecting rainwater. But the gutters are... yes, broken. And the cistern walls have been cracked by the fury of many hurricanes’ waves crushing against the house, so they wouldn’t hold the water very long any way. And any way, it hasn’t rained seriously in months.
So I swear silently in French, skip the shower and get dressed to go to the bank. Today is Thursday. The bank opens for five long hours. If I miss it today, it’ll go to next Monday. Twice a week is all we get, and that’s if the weather is good enough for Island Air to fly the two clerks in from the Brac...
And I leave the house on my scooter, deprived of my morning caffeine and soap. My helmet is sitting on top of my head unbuckled, completely useless but looking legal. I absent-mindedly wonder if there is a law that makes securing a helmet on one’s head mandatory on an island that is eleven miles long and where the overall speed limit is twenty-five mph.
I stop along the way at our only gas station - hardware - electronics - grocery - video rental - store, grab the key to the pump’s padlock and put two dollars of gas in my small tank. Then I go back inside, report the amount of my purchase (since the pump isn’t linked to the cash register) and go to aisle 4 (of four) to scout for bread. It must be my lucky day. Four loafs of bread are sitting on the six shelves, probably brought over by plane because the barge hasn’t shown up in a week and a half. After hesitating and probing each one carefully, I finally decide for the smallest one, a bag of eight hot-dog buns, because my finger actually creates a small dent when pushing hard into it, and because it only costs five dollars.
When I get to the bank next door, seven people are waiting in line. On an island like Little Cayman, that’s an overwhelming crowd. I give up. I’ll come back Monday.






















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