A long overdue pilgrimage Coriolistic Anachronisms - A Vancouver Blog

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Aug 16
   Vintage! This is a random post. The year was 2008...

I recently felt a need for the company of boats. I was longing for the discreet dancing motion of vessels in a harbour, the sound of halyards flapping in the wind, the gentle splashing of water against hulls, the various ocean-tainted smells of fish and diesel and paints and fiberglass and cleaners, the squeaking of floating wooden docks, the screaming seagulls circling returning trawlers, the hissing chatter of VHF radios, the notion that each and every boat present has a long loving and sometimes desperate history with the sea...

So I headed down the Seawall and caught a False Creek Ferry across to Granville Island, the island that is attached to land. There, I bypassed Bridges and its trendy crowd and angled for the small shipyard where many boats slept, hoisted up on blocks, dry and frozen in time, patiently waiting to be taken care of, fixed, scrubbed, sanded, painted, or maybe given maritime CPR.

It was late afternoon and not much was happening on the yard. I strolled around, carefully stepping over many obstacles and around protruding bows and engines, running my hands on freshly applied antifouling paint, remembering the many hours and days spent under the Caribbean sun preparing and painting our pontoon’s hull. We had our V-hull Banana Wind done professionally at Harbour House in Grand Cayman, but the 46 ft. pontoon was so light that we could pull it out of the water ourselves and park it on blocks in front of the old hangar.

Hull maintenance is nothing glamorous. Depending on how long the boat has spent in the water and how good a paint job had initially been done, it might take hours to days to get a hull prepped for a new paint. Barnacles and algae have to be completely removed, then the old paint must go too. The new paint applied is called antifouling because it prevents, to a certain extent, marine life from attaching itself to it. Most hull paints ablate over time, but hence can be scrubbed clean as the outer layer wears off. But this stuff is highly toxic and requires precautions, including wearing a serious mask while painting. I’ve done the mistake of settling for a simple white dust filter and was sick for hours.

However, in retrospect, all this hard work seemed so valuable and meaningful, almost like craftsmanship. It was driven by deep caring for our boats and the time spent initially would invariably yield proportionally lengthy years of good service.

Then there was all the work we did underwater at a mooring outside the marine park, inverted along the bottom of the boat, patiently scrubbing away while trying to keep our breathing down, or changing the sacrificial anodes, small blocks of zinc attached to the hull and ordered to commit suicide by oxidizing first to prevent corrosion on other metal parts. There was the re-coating of the deck with a special paint into which we mixed sand to turn it into an anti-slip surface. There were countless hours spent on the engines, and working on the bilge pumps, and the electrical panel, and the radios, the GPS.

And there was endless, daily and repetitive cleaning, rinsing, shining and buffing of every surface above the waterline, as boats are among man’s creations which require the most maintenance to stay young and healthy...

The Granville Island shipyard is modest in size and relatively clean and fancy because of its location. It lacks the usual stray dogs, the bustling activity, the skeleton-esk old boats abandoned on their blocks eons ago, the stains of paint everywhere. But it moved me and made my eyes shine. So I pushed on around the little bay to the fishing boat docks, and took a few shots of the city skyline.

On my way back, as I got off the ferry in the West End, the sunset suddenly fired up and I stayed on the beach for a while, my thoughts drifting far away in time and space. A boat, I thought, is more than a vehicle. Spend some time on one, learn to maneuver it, care for it, listen to its voice, feel its response, and soon it will become more than it was. It will begin to feel like home and a door will open unto another world. A world where we are explorers and conquerors all over again and in which a boat, like a sword, will really shine if handled well.

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2008-08-16 19:01 • Posted in Photoblogs: & Vancouver:

6 Comments

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  • 1 - Marie says:

    « What a wonderful post! Beautifully written and photographed :-) »

  • 1.1 - Vince answers:

    « Thank you! It’s easy to write about boats, much harder to clean them. ;-) »

  • 2 - Elo says:

    « Boats are like lovers, they can dazzla you, set your heart on fire and when you expect the least, betray you on a stormy night.
    They are a hassle to clean and maintain, but give you so much exhilirating pleasure on the water, who cares ! »

  • 2.1 - Vince answers:

    « LOL, Elo, well put. I think that if a boat is going to betray you, it might as well be on a stormy night, so that you at least have stories to tell your grandchildren by the fire... ;-) »

  • 3 - rob says:

    « Believe it or not Vince, the sunset that day made me think of you! (well, more specifically, your photos) - The colours were so surreal and unbelievably saturated, I was very upset I didn’t have my camera! But thankfully you pulled through and got some wonderful shots :) »

  • 3.1 - Vince answers:

    « Thanks Rob, the shots were ok at best. I was caught by surprise and didn’t have time to look for a better spot, nor bracket for HDR... »

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We now go back to current chronological entries:
Apr 20

After bitterly complaining out loud that I never took the time to visit the seawall  at sunset any more, I decided this week-end to break the vicious circle and having just come back from my run, I threw the camera bag over my shoulder, got the bike out and left again. The tires were half flat and the frame, seat and gears were covered in a fine layer of drust but it otherwise had survived the winter. In case you’re wondering what drust is, it’s the scar left on man-machines by time itself, a nasty, unavoidable combination of dust and rust. But the bike would at least take me around Stanley Park on a flower recon’; it hadn’t been the explosive bloom of two years ago, but there were flowers everywhere and I knew someone would enjoy the pictures.

It was a  chilly evening, Vancouver having decided that the circumspect approach of May is no reason to yield carelessly to the relative warmth of Spring. My woolen hat and gloves were welcome and I zipped up my jacket as high as it would go. I first cut through the West End to go inflate my tires and discovered a heron housing project that I had never seen before, a few paces away from my normal path.

Next I paused briefly around the rose garden to capture some cherry blossoms and other flowers, the roses still shyly being asleep. Then I headed towards Coal Harbour and paid a visit to the nesting white swan on the shores of Lost Lagoon. Just as before, she had obviously decided that her two eggs needed some fresh air and was standing next to them, cleaning herself up, oblivious to my presence. The fence erected around her nest by Park employees is probably a good measure because people are stupid and someone might attempt to make a swan egg omelet - the eggs are quite large, maybe half the size of those of an ostrich - but I must say the swan made a strange choice of nesting site by picking the side of one of the most visited trails in Stanley Park.

Then I pressed on around the Seawall, cut through at the Totem Poles, and arrived at my targeted cherry tree which was completely in the shadows already, a very disappointing fact that sent me on my way around Prospect Point towards Siwash Rock. I would at least get the sunset.

Nothing new there, I had done it so many times, but I always get a tingle down my spine at the view. It’s beautiful, and it’s lonely. For some odd reason, I never managed to take Marie all the way to the rock and it’s a place where I have never been in the company of anybody. Ever. I’ve made wishes there, however. And the main one has come true.

Long after the sun had faded below the the end of the world, I returned in the twilight, meeting a few herons and a raccoon, and a harbour seal that wouldn’t let me even try a picture. No trace of the river otter spotted a few weeks ago, it must have been a fluke. Few people were still out, most having been chased home early by the cold air and the erroneous conclusion that light ends with the sunset. I knew better.

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2008-04-20 21:19 • Posted in Photoblogs: & Vancouver:

3 Comments

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  • 1 - Marie says:

    « Oh, wow! Wow wow wow. I wish I’d been there. Vancouver is gorgeous. Stunning pictures, and a raccoon! Not digging in a trashcan but fresh from the washing his paws in the sea! I wish, I’d been there, :-) »

  • 1.1 - Vince answers:

    « You were. :-) »

  • 2 - Marie says:

    « These pictures really are classics...looking at them all again tonight. Each one. Siwash rock is unearthly, the heron so beautiful. Makes me want to be there. »

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