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«The Road to Mokala»

Five-part story of yet another road trip from Cape Town into the heart of South Africa, via the Tsitsikama National Park on the Garden Route, the Addo Elephant National Park along the way, and the Mokala National Park west of Kimberley. Eight days, close to three thousand kilometers and lots of boerewors.

Back from Africa, Reloaded

Eyes dreamy, heart loosened and memory sticks packed full of demanding pixels, I just flew back from South Africa, leaving behind a torn Marie who gets to enjoy a few more weeks of sheer Cape beauty, incomplete as it may when we are apart. With another 3,000-kilometer road trip under her belts, the valiant Mogashagasha […]

The Road to Mokala, Part 1 – Sahara Below

Almost twenty years ago, an old man, aged beyond reason by a systematic abuse of smoking, alcohol and anger, burst into tears one day at the memory of travels it turns out he regretted as much as he missed them. He had been at peace in Tahiti, in love in Mexico and had fought in […]

The Road to Mokala, Part 2 – Ride of the Tsitsikamma Dolphins

Dutifully purring her way up Sir Lowry’s Pass on Cape Town’s eastern flank with the Hottentot-Hollands peaks rising above us like unbelieving eyebrows, our beloved Landcruiser Mogashagasha, locked and loaded for a week-long foray far into the Northern Cape, felt about as comfortable to me as the proverbial saddle we were back in. Vinyl might […]

The Road to Mokala, Part 3 – Of Elephants and Mousebirds

A couple of eventful years ago, after driving up the spine of South Africa while wearily watching the glow of a lit t-belt light, our initial reward upon entering Kruger through the Orpen gate had been elephants, my first encounter with them in the wild. From neurotic mud-covered attractions swaying at the far corner of […]

The Road to Mokala, Part 4 – Vermilion, Ochre and Gold

Squarely sitting off the beaten track, Mokala National Park is remote enough that a lengthy dirt road approach would be required. Our paper map and Google’s insights seemingly as prone to disagreement in second class areas of the Third World as the political factions that divide them, we hesitated and finally gambled on an early […]

The Road to Mokala, Part 5 – Bush Run

While Vancouver was blessed with the most spectacular playground a runner might ever dream of, South Africa has also delivered memorable—and at times challenging—trail runs. Whether it was running into the sunset on a deserted Mpumalanga hill, up and down Table Mountain the long, arduous way, or through the entire length of the Cape of Good Hope, […]