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Karoo Parenthesis, Part 3 - Two Passes

December 27, 2016

After an eerily silent night, the end of the road equating to absolutely no traffic or human noise in an already deserted space, I get up early and, remembering that we have routinely forgotten the plunger for our stove-top espresso maker, I use the conveniently supplied replacement and prepare our traditional breakfast of coffee and rusks. Granted the luxury of a choice of terraces, we opt for the sun-facing side and warm up as we watch the mock-up savanna below us come to life. Our rental giraffes...

Karoo Parenthesis, Part 2 - Weltevrede Fig Farm

November 21, 2016

But a small speck of harsh dwelling thinly spread over a few acres of dry Karoo space and theater to mostly survival, Prince Albert sits stoically in the shadow of the Swartberg range, isolated and remote. I would postulate that one does not end up in the small town by accident as it is defended by steep and treacherous mountain passes and an infinity of empty, inhospitable dusty land. Much determination must be needed to arrive here, and exponentially more of either fate or...

Karoo Parenthesis, Part 1 - Return to Babylonstoren

October 29, 2016

Having spent a few days in Constantia, we leave Cape Town on August 16. Our road trips have unfortunately shrunk in scope and hunger, starved by my worsening lack of time. From the full-fleshed, epic adventures they once were, they have mummified into short, frantic dashes to the end of a relatively short but surprisingly elastic escape leash. It lets us spring out at high velocity and enjoy a brief timeout at the apogee, life standing still for a few precious moments, motion nullified and peace setting...

Philly

May 30, 2016

A few months ago, while a moody winter hiccuped erratically across the Eastern Seaboard, I blew the proverbial fuse and blasted off our Brooklyn island and unto uncharted territory at the wheel of a Zipcar. Poor Marie was tied up to her computer by aggressively lively deadlines, and I just had to see the world. Any world. Fast. Willingly lured by the artistically carved, delicately etched and forever lacquered and polished memories of my dear tropics, I was weak and went south. Well, southeast, as it turned out, since I...

Feather Count

April 22, 2016

A couple of months ago, walking home from the subway with a hook towards Whole Foods, we came upon a gathering of people who stood on sidewalks, pointing up animatedly and aiming phones. At first I had thought they were looking at a plane but the object of their attention turned out to be a pair of large red-tailed hawks. The birds appeared to be collecting little sticks from the top branches of a tree to build their nest, which they puzzlingly had elected to place on the street-facing fire escape of a three-story...

The Namaqualand Bloom, Part 5 - Luxing Out at Babylonstoren

April 5, 2016

Having disdainfully discarded the main artery option and instead opting for a rougher drive south on yet another isolated dirt road, we sliced our way through beautifully empty Karoo-like scenery, stacked landscape layers fading to the horizon like memories in a tired mind, losing sharpness as they grew distant. Karoo In Clanwilliam, we rejoined the busy N7 exactly at the point where major roadwork had impressed us on the way up. It did again. Of massive proportions, the project featured its own cement factory and a...

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